THE sky is a brilliant blue, with but a faint cloud wisp or two reflected on the waters of the harbour. The sun is high in the sky and the temperature is hovering at an agreeable 28 degrees.
This is the third day of such weather and, while it’s pleasant, it seems wholly unremarkable. Apparently, it’s not. “You’re so lucky – this is really amazing weather,” is a refrain we hear often in the four days we’re here. Apparently, in Windy Wellington, they like to talk about the weather as much as we do.
It seems to be Wellington’s year. Named by Lonely Planet as one of the coolest cities to visit in 2011, it has popped up on many an international traveller’s itinerary. And, regardless of the hype, I too fell for Welly’s charms - quickly and completely.
Visiting a city that can be explored completely by foot is very relaxing. Framed by the harbour in the east, the university to the west and the botanic gardens, reached by historic cable car, to the north, New Zealand’s capital city can be easily traversed in a day – though there are enough distractions to last you many days more.
Most of the city’s attractions are in the CBD, and those I was most interested in involved food and wine. In many respects Wellington, home to just under 200,000, is like a mini Melbourne: it has a thriving cafe scene (Wellingtonians take their coffee even more seriously than we do), numerous small designer boutiques are scattered throughout the city, and there is a thriving arts and music scene. My type of city.
First stop for some of that good coffee was Cuba Street. Named after an early 1840s settler ship, this strip, which is pedestrian-only in the middle, is the beat of Wellington’s bohemian heart, with bars, cafes and boutiques sitting side by side with fast food joints, porn stores and five-star restaurants.
Fidels, at the Mount Cook end of the street, is a top spot for fuelling on excellent coffee (it was strong – double shots are the norm in this town) and eggs done any which way.
Suitably sated and caffeinated, we ambled along window shopping, slowly making our way down to the harbour, where we took in three impressive exhibitions by local artists at the Wellington City Gallery, situated on the sparse and spacious city square.
Also on the waterfront, is the imposing Te Papa, the museum of New Zealand. With hundreds of interactive displays, it is easy to spend a couple of hours immersed in the nation’s stories and history. I found Mana Whenua, the section on the original Maori who voyaged across the seas from afar and settled these ancient lands, especially interesting. There’s also an engaging section on earthquakes and how they’ve affected this geologically turbulent country – especially relevant in light of the recent Christchurch tragedy. And a colossal squid, weighing in at 495 kilograms and measuring more than 4 metres. It’s the only complete specimen – and the heaviest – in the world on display and is as impressive as it sounds.
After an afternoon filled with art and history, it was time for something to eat and drink. Wellington is brimming with fantastic options for sipping and supping – Cuba Street has some of the edgier choices, while the bars along Courtney Place tend to be a touch rougher and rowdier, with most open into the early hours.
Duke Carvell’s Emporium, at the end of Swan Lane just off Cuba Street, is a wood-panelled, moodily lit wine bar/restaurant with an excellent wine list that does a fine line in tapas-sized tastes from around the world. Once we’d eaten our fill, it was time to visit one of Wellington’s most famed bars, The Matterhorn.
Down a corridor off Cuba Street, this lauded and awarded bar continues to pack in the beautiful people but, refreshingly, has some of the most enthusiastic (and unaffected) staff around. After an impeccable dirty martini and lovely chats with our waitress, it was quickly clear why this spot continues to feature on so many Best Bars in the World lists.
After a nightcap at the very cool back street hangout Havana (housed behind the door of a couple of unassuming workers’ cottages), it was time to put the day to bed, and there are few better places to do so than the boutique Ohtel.
Situated on Oriental Parade, this 10-room oasis in the heart of Wellington is a triumph of style and substance. With an unerring eye for detail (room fittings by local designers, boutique beers in the fridge, and a guilt-inducing swimming pool-sized bathtub) our spacious and comfortable room provided a wonderful base for exploring a city that truly shines – whatever the weather.
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